Monday, September 22, 2008

Water Grill 5x5 dinner, LA

The 5 x 5 dinner is a collaboration by five of LA's finest chefs. Each chef is responsible for one dish from the tasting menu. This process is repeated at each chef's restaurant. I am told by my more experienced fellow diners that Water Grill is event 4 of 5.


Canapes and Amuse Bouche

Canapes: Kanpachi, pineapple and daikon (left)
Canapes:
Risotto Balls with saffron, papaya, and andouille sausage (middle)
Canapes:
Foie gras with orange konjac jelly and orange zest (right)



Perhaps it has been a while perhaps my memory is faulty but I cannot remember anything about the kanpachi even though it was meant to take centre stage. My only memory was that the daikon was strong and left a freshness in the mouth due to its coolness

Being partial to fried goodness my mouth had watered at the mere sight of the risotto balls and the little delights did not disappoint. Texturally the outer layer was just the right amount of crispiness and the filling sufficiently moist and succulent but not the sorry mess that risotto balls can sometimes be.

I have always strongly believed that foie gras should come in smaller portions as I am aware of how they are made but also for health reasons and the richness of foie gras itself. So I was pleased to see 'bite size' foie gras for the first time. The smooth, buttery richness was well balanced by the subtle orange jelly and zest and for once I craved for more. To be honest I also craved a piece of warm brioche to go with the foie gras.


Amuse bouche: Uni, fennel sorbet and tonburi - Chef David LeFevre of Water Grill



Coming from Australia where I could buy freshly opened uni for less than $10 at the Sydney fish markets, any uni dish was facing an uphill battle with me. This was exactly the case here, there was nothing wrong with the chef's interpretation in fact it was fairly good but I still felt myself daydreaming of the Sydney fish markets.

We were provided with olive, french and sourdough bread. The olives were my favourite. The idea of bread with butter is still a bit foreign to me and I wished I had some olive oil and rosemary to go with the bread.


Tasting Menu

Tasting 1: Big eye tuna sashimi with petite mache, jicama, watermelon, black quinoa, quail egg and shellfish emulsion - Chef Tentori of Boka (Chicago, Illinois)
Tasting 2: Pan roasted scallops with american caviar and yukon gold potato - Chef Michael Cimarusti of Providence



This was a dish well done. Upon first looking at the tuna I winced my preference is to nurture the natural flavour and this was a piece of tuna that looked like it was drowning in flavours. However, this was not the case in each bite the flavours enhanced and complemented the natural flavour rather than override it. As I'm partial to quail eggs there is almost nothing a chef can do to turn me away from one and it was the case here.

If I had never had the scallops at Le Bernadins I would have no cause for complaint on this dish. There was a good interplay between the butter, lemon, caviar and savoury additions. In fact it tasted almost like the scallops at Le Bernadins but the flavour was not as bold and the scallops slightly tough but still very delicious.


Tasting 3: Santa Barbara spot prawn risotto with asparagus - Chef Gino Angelini of Oesteria Angelini
Tasting 4: Roasted john dory, mushroom tart, chorizo-torpedo onion marmalad with red wine mushroom jus - Chef Josiah Citrine of Melisse
Tasting 5: Hawaiin mero with kobe oxtail and red wine sauce - Chef Walter Manzke




Having never really been a risotto fan I pass this dish onto my fellow diner but of the mouthful I did have I thought that it was a bit to salty, the prawn was not fresh and the risotto undercooked. However, as I said I am not a risotto connoisseur and have not enjoyed what others consider to be 'good' risotto before so my comments may not be a good reflection of fact.

I really enjoyed the flavours on the dory dish particularly the mushroom tart. However, as I had spent some time on photographing the dory the pasty on my tart was not as crispy as it once was. At first I thought that the dory was too soft and it was overcooked however, upon reading more on the dory I realised there was nothing the chef could do the texture was that way as the fish had small, fine flakes.

Of the mero (furthest right) I cannot remember much perhaps because it was overpowered by other strong contenders on the plate. From left to right the celery with bacon was an interesting combination that worked well. The marrow was rich and decadent leaving me wanting however I felt that it was slightly overpowered by the carrots and wished that I had had it by itself. My personal favourite is the wagyu oxtail and potato it was simple but delectable.


Dessert and petit fours


Dessert: Yoghurt parfait with white nectarine sorbet and clementine sauce - Chef John Park of Water Grill
Petit fours (clockwise)
:
Churros, valrhona chocolate, shortbread, peanut butter and jelly, pistachio macaroons, chocolate macaroons, peach jelly
Petit fours: malted chocolate ice cream lollipops




Chef John did what most chefs rarely did with desserts and that was practice moderation and this impressed me. The parfait was subtle with some slight acidity and the accompanying cherries and sauce were also light and fresh on the palate. An excellent job was also done on making the sorbet taste just like nectarines.

I had never seen such an elaborate arrangement of petit fours before in my life. My dining companions use the phrase mignardise instead of petit fours which also means little bites this impressed me and I make a mental note to casually drop the word next time in everyday conversation like I am just naturally sophisticated!!! Every piece was decadent and tasty my favourite are the churros I wish I had a bit of ice cream and chocolate to dip it in. This was one of the best churros I had ever had (note churros are rare in Sydney) the centre was soft and moist, the outer layer crispy but not harsh to the bite. After that I must say I was suitably pleased with the macaroons, these were the first macaroons in the US which came close to my experience at the Laduree, Paris. Actually everything on the plate was well done I only missed out on the jelly as I am not partial to sweet jelly desserts.

After thinking that this could not get any better I finished off with the lollipops and a cold burst of sensation burst across my tongue and filled me with delight. Needless to say it was a great ending to the meal


Final thoughts


Overall, the dishes were solid and enjoyable. Needless to say there were slight flaws in some of the dishes but in each case never enough to detract from the enjoyment of the meal. This being my first wine pairing I must say that a few of the wines will now enter my lists of favourite wines. I must give a big thanks to my dining companions who were very generous with their food knowledge (and wine knowledge in fact!!!) as well as their patience with my camera antics even to some point encouraging it. Actually one of the other more experienced blogger does this cool thing where he talks into the camera like a dictaphone after each dish and I am making mental notes to be equally sophisticated soon :P

Water Grill
544 S Grand Ave, Los Angeles, CA 90071
Phone: 213.891.0900


4 comments:

Epicuryan said...

Great post. I think you articulated many of my thoughts with a great deal more eloquence than I could do.

As for the voice notes, I'll show you how to do that next time you are around =)

Epicuryan said...

Oh yeah good timing on your posting... the dinner at La Terza is tomorrow. I'll let you know how that goes.

kevinEats said...

Nice review! Your writing has a certain elegance, a joie de vivre, that I can't quite put my finger on.

As for petit fours vs. mignardises, I'm not sure what the distinction is exactly. It's like amuse bouche vs. canapés... ;)

Tubs said...

Tangbro1 it's funny that you should say that because I thought the same things when I was reading your posts!!!

Kevineats that joie de vivre is called my personality!!! kidding :P